The menswear shows in Paris are underway and despite frigid temperatures and a grueling transit strike, the fashion community is in full swing.
This season’s event, which ends on Sunday, features a number of firsts, including the unexpected debut of Usher’s brightly colored hair and the highly anticipated collaboration between Louis Vuitton and American designer Colm Dillane of KidSuper.
From celebrity sightings to standout collections, read on for our impressions of the shows so far.
Usher’s new neon ‘do
Usher with blood orange hair. Credit: Pierre Suu/Getty Images
The Grammy award-winning artist lit up the front row with his new head of flaming orange hair. Usher debuted his ombre effect neon look on the first day of the Wales Bonner shows and was spotted again at Bianca Saunders the following day. He wore the entire opening look from last season’s catwalk and his presence had photographers clamoring for a photo.
Geometry class with Issey Miyake
A dancing interlude demonstrated movement of the clothes on Issey Miyake’s catwalk. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Geometric shapes, with a strong focus on triangles, were the starting point and impetus for this season’s Homme Plissé Issey Miyake collection, which showcases the many iterations of how triangles and other angular elements can be twisted and manipulated into complex silhouettes and patterns.
Signature pleats abounded, of course, from pleated trousers to pleated details on sleeveless shirts and jackets, and larger, looser pleats falling from the shoulders on nylon outerwear.
The show was punctuated by dance performances showing off how well the garments moved, as performers weaved in and around a light show featuring – you guessed it – more geometric shapes.
Jenna Ortega channeled Grace Jones at Saint Laurent
Jenna Ortega attends the Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty
Jenna Ortega, star of the Netflix series “Wednesday,” stepped out in a black hooded dress with a backless back for Anthony Vaccarello’s first men’s show for Saint Laurent in Paris. The halter-style dress, from the brand’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection, was reminiscent of Grace Jones’ iconic signature look. Sitting in the front row, the actor was visibly mesmerized by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s piano playing that closed the show.
Rick Owens orthopedic boots
Rick Owens went to extremes on his menswear show. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Rick Owens is no stranger to statement footwear – his dizzying Kiss platforms have become a cult staple. This season, the American designer exuded orthopedic glamor with a boot that offered a much thicker silhouette on the leg, with thick padding held together with leather buckle straps. The fanciest way to recover from a broken foot?
Rosalia rocked Louis Vuitton
Rosalía stole the show on the Louis Vuitton catwalk. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images
Spanish pop star Rosalía rocked the roof of the Louvre with her exciting performance for the Louis Vuitton fashion show, which unveiled a new collection with its first guest creative director, Colm Dillane of KidSuper. Opening the show in an all-white oversized ensemble, the artist walked the runway with a torch flashing the French brand’s iconic monogram before climbing onto a yellow car and launching into a rendition of her hit “Candy.”
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection featured a mix of elegant tailoring, utility wear, sport-inspired looses and patchwork jackets.
Mature rave culture at Dries Van Noten
A drum performance by the Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan scored Dries Van Noten’s show. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images
Music has always been important to Dries Van Noten. Avid followers will remember his Fall-Winter 2011 show, featuring soundtracks from specially mixed David Bowie masters. This season, the Belgian designer explored ’90s rave culture with a more grown-up feel. Guests moved into a multi-story parking garage before the show, piled high with experimental musicians performing soft techno beats, while beer was offered from a steel cart. At the top, Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan performed what the show notes called “sophisti-rave” on drums and synthesizers. The hypnotic soundtrack set the tone for the new collection featuring flora and fauna motifs, furry clogs, outerwear ranging from tailored slim-waisted coats to oversized puffer jackets with abstract patterns, and roomy 1990s cargo pants.
Junya Watanabe Reveals Palace Collaboration
Junya Wantanabe collaborated with London-based skatewear brand Palace. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images
Junya Watanabe, known for his extensive list of fashion collaborations, chose to celebrate the many brands he’s worked with over the years – including New Balance, Oakley, North Face and Timberland – in a mostly monochromatic collection. Also spotted on the catwalk was the unmistakable Tri-Ferg logo from Palace, the London-based skatewear brand, on a black part puffer part parka jacket. Another first.